Here are some resources that I found helpful in preparation for and during my trip:
Rentaphone Japan: I was able to get a cell phone with unlimited messaging for a really good price. Since messaging is so prevalent in Japan, having unlimited messaging for 300 yen was great! Phone calls can be kinda steep, but they do have a discounted calling rate you can access by dialing a special number before making your call. I ordered the phone online about a week before leaving, giving them a bit of information and selecting the pickup location (you can pick it up at the airport post office or have it sent to an address or hotel). All I had to do was go pick it up! Of course, speaking a bit of Japanese did help. The phone service is through Softbank and coverage was great. If I need a phone the next time I go to Japan, I will definitely use this service.
Customs, US and Japan: I wish I had this information before. I always worry about what you can and can't bring into a country. I know Japan is pretty tight with the food you can bring with you, for example. Paying duty is also another iffy area...
Transfer Guide (Subway and Trains): I used this last time in Japan. It's really helpful to plan out a trip or two before you leave. Of course, if you have a fancy phone, you can just look it up from there. This will give you directions on what line to take, transfers, total time, and price. Handy stuff.
Japan National Tourism Organization: This site has a wealth of information and links. It's a great resource for helping to plan out a trip to Japan.
globalization at work
It makes no sense to me--Krispy Kreme in Japan?! Without getting into my personal opinions about the Kreme's expansion in the US, this is just something I can't wrap my brain around. However, the store(s) (I think there's at least one, maybe more) are wildly popular. As popular as they once were here I would say. They commonly have one hour lines and outside the store. I just don't understand. In the interest of full disclosure, I did fall in love with the donut chain Mister Donut in Japan before, I even had a point card. Why those exist in Japan, I don't understand. However, I always ate WAY more than the average Japanese patron, up to six donuts in one sitting in times of the 100 yen special (which, by the way, they instituted just for me when I visited this time! ok, not really just for me...).
They've also opened up a Forever 21 store in Tokyo; the store when it first opened had a line that was an hour and a half just to get in, stretching from outside the store out to the train station, at least a good five minute walk in distance.
Perhaps most shockingly to me was the prevalence of Starbucks in Japan. Last time, I swear I only saw 2 Starbucks in Tokyo, this time, there were too many to count. It's sad, really. There is some local customization, including of course, the smaller drinks (a small in Japan is the same as a US kid's size) which I don't mind and the different drinks, like a jelly frappuchino.
Other imported stores, like Krispy Kreme, Forever 21, Starbucks, and I will admit Mister Donut, include of course McDonalds, KFC (all the stores in Japan seem to have a statue of the Colonel standing right outside the door), Shakey's Pizza, Wendy's, Seattle's Best Coffee, Pizza Hut...
They've also opened up a Forever 21 store in Tokyo; the store when it first opened had a line that was an hour and a half just to get in, stretching from outside the store out to the train station, at least a good five minute walk in distance.
Perhaps most shockingly to me was the prevalence of Starbucks in Japan. Last time, I swear I only saw 2 Starbucks in Tokyo, this time, there were too many to count. It's sad, really. There is some local customization, including of course, the smaller drinks (a small in Japan is the same as a US kid's size) which I don't mind and the different drinks, like a jelly frappuchino.
Other imported stores, like Krispy Kreme, Forever 21, Starbucks, and I will admit Mister Donut, include of course McDonalds, KFC (all the stores in Japan seem to have a statue of the Colonel standing right outside the door), Shakey's Pizza, Wendy's, Seattle's Best Coffee, Pizza Hut...
a long time coming
It's true. I've been back for over a week now and haven't posted a thing. Shame on me, right?
I'd like to revisit Kyoto, the subject. Kyoto is a very interesting city, a city of contrasts. I'm not sure what I really expected before going, but I was definitely expecting the old history, the shrines, and so on, but I had also heard it was a large city as well. Even knowing so, I pretty much was only "prepared" for the old shrines and such.
When you arrive in Kyoto via bullet train, you arrive at the monstrous Kyoto Station in the south of the city. It's a huge station and especially arriving by bullet train, you really feel as though you could be in any city, anywhere in the world, it's all just so...modern?...cosmopolitan, perhaps. From Kyoto Station, you can get anywhere by the city's huge network of city buses.
Our first stop in Kyoto was the Kyoto Imperial Palace for a short 30 minute tour, in Japanese, no less. Sure, they have one hour English tours as well, but who wants to be stuck outside during the hottest and muggiest part of the day right under the sun, stuck with a bunch of English speaking tourists? Not me. Did I understand much of the tour? Not really, but I could understand some of the Japanese! And in any case, I got to see the Imperial Palace. The Palace grounds are enormous, taking a good 10 minutes to walk from one end to the other. After the tour, we ran into this tiny little shrine tucked away. Some other people (foreigners with screaming children!) walked up to the shrine but didn't enter. Their loss. I love these little shrines for a reason I can't really explain. Maybe because it's easier to get the real "feeling" of what the shrines are about--being close to the natural world. Later we saw the kids playing in a pond...not cool.
Next stop was Kiyomizu-dera. This gorgeous temple is on the edge of town, up a long, steep, shop lined, narrow little street. You finally arrive to the end of the shops and reach the final (steep) steps up to the shrine; it literally towers over you, but it is gorgeous. And the best part? after entering the shrine, the first section you walk through has great views of the city down below and the tree covered hills around. It started raining that afternoon, so the view probably wasn't the best. You walk though the shrine one way; at the end there's this waterfall type thing that you take a drink out of...sounds stupid, but there's some kind of folklore about why. Of course I can't remember what it is.
I had a whole list of places I wanted to see in Kyoto, but sadly it was too long to squeeze into one full day and two half ones. So I decided to "knock the fat" out of my list and only visit three shrines/temples and then one market shopping area in the city. Day two in Kyoto started off at Kinkaku-ji (the golden pavillion), then Kamigamo-jinja, Nanzen-ji, and finished off the day in the Nishiki market area.
Kinkaku-ji looks cool, but it's filled with tourists, making it largely unappealing. Kamigamo-jinja is one of those lesser known shrines it seems and it was my favorite place. Nanzen-ji was cool, but I'm not sure I'd go back. The shopping was, of course, good. My favorite part just might have been the yatsuhashi (a Kyoto specialty of Japanese sweets, made with sweet bean paste) shop where they had samples of everything! There was a tiny little shrine in the market...it was amazing. It was nighttime, so the shrine was lit up with lanterns. If I had to pick a favorite memory of Kyoto, that's it.
The last day, we went to Inari-Taisha Jinja. It's a shrine that's set in the foothills. There are thousands of orange gates over paved paths, with shrines and even a lake. I loved this shrine, perhaps the best overall (even above Kamigamo-jinja, which is hard to admit). The contrast of the orange gates against the green trees in the morning sun was simply amazing.
From there, it was back to the station for a bit of final shopping, then "home" to Tokyo on the bullet train.
It's a bit strange to say, but when I was in Kyoto, I wasn't really crazy about it. I'm more of a city person, and riding around in buses from shrine to shrine really just wasn't very appealing to me. I guess I prefer just walking around and exploring one area, which is why the market appealed to me so much. My favorite thing about Kyoto is the contrast of new and old, the traditional among the city. The shrine at the market is a perfect example: you enter the shrine and completely forget where you came from because its so serene.
A parting scene, from inside the market shrine looking out:
I'd like to revisit Kyoto, the subject. Kyoto is a very interesting city, a city of contrasts. I'm not sure what I really expected before going, but I was definitely expecting the old history, the shrines, and so on, but I had also heard it was a large city as well. Even knowing so, I pretty much was only "prepared" for the old shrines and such.
When you arrive in Kyoto via bullet train, you arrive at the monstrous Kyoto Station in the south of the city. It's a huge station and especially arriving by bullet train, you really feel as though you could be in any city, anywhere in the world, it's all just so...modern?...cosmopolitan, perhaps. From Kyoto Station, you can get anywhere by the city's huge network of city buses.
Our first stop in Kyoto was the Kyoto Imperial Palace for a short 30 minute tour, in Japanese, no less. Sure, they have one hour English tours as well, but who wants to be stuck outside during the hottest and muggiest part of the day right under the sun, stuck with a bunch of English speaking tourists? Not me. Did I understand much of the tour? Not really, but I could understand some of the Japanese! And in any case, I got to see the Imperial Palace. The Palace grounds are enormous, taking a good 10 minutes to walk from one end to the other. After the tour, we ran into this tiny little shrine tucked away. Some other people (foreigners with screaming children!) walked up to the shrine but didn't enter. Their loss. I love these little shrines for a reason I can't really explain. Maybe because it's easier to get the real "feeling" of what the shrines are about--being close to the natural world. Later we saw the kids playing in a pond...not cool.
Next stop was Kiyomizu-dera. This gorgeous temple is on the edge of town, up a long, steep, shop lined, narrow little street. You finally arrive to the end of the shops and reach the final (steep) steps up to the shrine; it literally towers over you, but it is gorgeous. And the best part? after entering the shrine, the first section you walk through has great views of the city down below and the tree covered hills around. It started raining that afternoon, so the view probably wasn't the best. You walk though the shrine one way; at the end there's this waterfall type thing that you take a drink out of...sounds stupid, but there's some kind of folklore about why. Of course I can't remember what it is.
I had a whole list of places I wanted to see in Kyoto, but sadly it was too long to squeeze into one full day and two half ones. So I decided to "knock the fat" out of my list and only visit three shrines/temples and then one market shopping area in the city. Day two in Kyoto started off at Kinkaku-ji (the golden pavillion), then Kamigamo-jinja, Nanzen-ji, and finished off the day in the Nishiki market area.
Kinkaku-ji looks cool, but it's filled with tourists, making it largely unappealing. Kamigamo-jinja is one of those lesser known shrines it seems and it was my favorite place. Nanzen-ji was cool, but I'm not sure I'd go back. The shopping was, of course, good. My favorite part just might have been the yatsuhashi (a Kyoto specialty of Japanese sweets, made with sweet bean paste) shop where they had samples of everything! There was a tiny little shrine in the market...it was amazing. It was nighttime, so the shrine was lit up with lanterns. If I had to pick a favorite memory of Kyoto, that's it.
The last day, we went to Inari-Taisha Jinja. It's a shrine that's set in the foothills. There are thousands of orange gates over paved paths, with shrines and even a lake. I loved this shrine, perhaps the best overall (even above Kamigamo-jinja, which is hard to admit). The contrast of the orange gates against the green trees in the morning sun was simply amazing.
From there, it was back to the station for a bit of final shopping, then "home" to Tokyo on the bullet train.It's a bit strange to say, but when I was in Kyoto, I wasn't really crazy about it. I'm more of a city person, and riding around in buses from shrine to shrine really just wasn't very appealing to me. I guess I prefer just walking around and exploring one area, which is why the market appealed to me so much. My favorite thing about Kyoto is the contrast of new and old, the traditional among the city. The shrine at the market is a perfect example: you enter the shrine and completely forget where you came from because its so serene.
A parting scene, from inside the market shrine looking out:
Japanese spirit
It's been a very interesting day. Interesting in a good way, though.
I visited my host family this morning and honestly, I was quite worried about going. I do this though, ask myself "Will they remember me?", "Will they want to see me?", etc. I hate the idea of imposing on other people, especially in these situations. But I suppose if someone doesn't really want to see me, they would just ignore my attempts to contact them...right?
Anyway, I went to see my host family for lunch today and I had no idea what to expect. Of course, I brought the obligatory omiyage gift from home (a calendar, coffee, chocolates, and homemade jam) which they seemed to enjoy. We had a delicious temaki (sushi hand rolls) lunch with kuromame (boiled black soybeans, my favorite), followed by melon, ice cream, fruit jelly, and cherries for dessert. It's funny that I was so worried about going to their house...it turns out, they really missed me after I left and often talked about me. When I left after the homestay, they said the equivalent of "see you later"; at the time, I thought they say that to all their host students upon leaving, but it was just to me. As lame of an afterthought as it may be, it really changes my perspective on my homestay experience.
After leaving my host parents' house, I went to Yasukuni shrine. The politics behind Yasukuni is truly fascinating, though I don't really have any references at the time to back this claim up. I wrote a paper last year on the role of nationalism at Yasukuni shrine and have looked forward to seeing it for myself ever since. After visiting the shrine and going through the museum, without a doubt, I completely understand why Yasukuni is an integral part of Japan and Japanese culture. I also understand why there is such controversy surrounding the shrine and museum; over a dozen class A war criminals were enshrined here and the museum does present a "biased view" on Japan's war history ("biased view" because it asserts that Japan played a passive role and was forced into past wars).
There were many foreigners at Yasukuni and I was wondering the whole time what they knew about Yasukuni before visiting. Honestly, I had never even heard of the place before writing that paper...and if I hadn't written the paper, I wouldn't even know there was any controversy behind the shrine, let alone why.
I also received quite the compliment today: it seems I have a partial Japanese spirit in the ways that I think and act. In a way, I've always thought that a bit about myself, but to hear it while in Japan from Japanese people is different.
I visited my host family this morning and honestly, I was quite worried about going. I do this though, ask myself "Will they remember me?", "Will they want to see me?", etc. I hate the idea of imposing on other people, especially in these situations. But I suppose if someone doesn't really want to see me, they would just ignore my attempts to contact them...right?
Anyway, I went to see my host family for lunch today and I had no idea what to expect. Of course, I brought the obligatory omiyage gift from home (a calendar, coffee, chocolates, and homemade jam) which they seemed to enjoy. We had a delicious temaki (sushi hand rolls) lunch with kuromame (boiled black soybeans, my favorite), followed by melon, ice cream, fruit jelly, and cherries for dessert. It's funny that I was so worried about going to their house...it turns out, they really missed me after I left and often talked about me. When I left after the homestay, they said the equivalent of "see you later"; at the time, I thought they say that to all their host students upon leaving, but it was just to me. As lame of an afterthought as it may be, it really changes my perspective on my homestay experience.
After leaving my host parents' house, I went to Yasukuni shrine. The politics behind Yasukuni is truly fascinating, though I don't really have any references at the time to back this claim up. I wrote a paper last year on the role of nationalism at Yasukuni shrine and have looked forward to seeing it for myself ever since. After visiting the shrine and going through the museum, without a doubt, I completely understand why Yasukuni is an integral part of Japan and Japanese culture. I also understand why there is such controversy surrounding the shrine and museum; over a dozen class A war criminals were enshrined here and the museum does present a "biased view" on Japan's war history ("biased view" because it asserts that Japan played a passive role and was forced into past wars).
There were many foreigners at Yasukuni and I was wondering the whole time what they knew about Yasukuni before visiting. Honestly, I had never even heard of the place before writing that paper...and if I hadn't written the paper, I wouldn't even know there was any controversy behind the shrine, let alone why.
I also received quite the compliment today: it seems I have a partial Japanese spirit in the ways that I think and act. In a way, I've always thought that a bit about myself, but to hear it while in Japan from Japanese people is different.
old and new
I arrived in Kyoto yesterday and tomorrow I will leave; a quick trip to Kyoto for a quick trip to Japan. The more days that go by here in Japan, the more I realize a longer trip would have been better.
My impression of Kyoto is a little bit strange...depending on how you want to look at it, you get a good sense of the conflict or harmony between old style Japan and the new. You see sites and shrines that have been around for over 1000 years right next to modern department stores and shops. You walk down market streets filled with visitors, both Japanese and foreign, filled with all kinds of clothing, accessory, and gift shops only to breeze past ancient shrines that are almost forgotten (these have been one of my favorite spots in Kyoto).
The popular tourist sites are just that...popular. And extremely crowded. Like the golden pavillion (Ginkaku-ji). I definitely prefer the less crowded, lesser known places. I think it may sound a bit...arrogant...but I can't really understand why someone would travel to Japan to only visit popular tourist sites. I see many foreigners here in Kyoto and I just don't understand why. Of course, this comes from a tourist, so it's a bit hypocritical of course. I suppose my advice in all this is, if you come to Japan and especially Kyoto, I highly recommend you seek out non-traditional places. Especially if you go to a Shinto shrine, I don't think you can get a sense of what the shrine is really all about when you are surrounded by others.
While this is the last (and only) full day of the trip, I did make it to:
My impression of Kyoto is a little bit strange...depending on how you want to look at it, you get a good sense of the conflict or harmony between old style Japan and the new. You see sites and shrines that have been around for over 1000 years right next to modern department stores and shops. You walk down market streets filled with visitors, both Japanese and foreign, filled with all kinds of clothing, accessory, and gift shops only to breeze past ancient shrines that are almost forgotten (these have been one of my favorite spots in Kyoto).
The popular tourist sites are just that...popular. And extremely crowded. Like the golden pavillion (Ginkaku-ji). I definitely prefer the less crowded, lesser known places. I think it may sound a bit...arrogant...but I can't really understand why someone would travel to Japan to only visit popular tourist sites. I see many foreigners here in Kyoto and I just don't understand why. Of course, this comes from a tourist, so it's a bit hypocritical of course. I suppose my advice in all this is, if you come to Japan and especially Kyoto, I highly recommend you seek out non-traditional places. Especially if you go to a Shinto shrine, I don't think you can get a sense of what the shrine is really all about when you are surrounded by others.
While this is the last (and only) full day of the trip, I did make it to:
- Kinkaku-ji
- Nanzen-ji
- Kamigamo-jinja
- Nishiki Market
- Kyoto Imperial Palace
- Kiyomizu-dera
my legs take a rest
It's amazing to me to be in a country with such a long standing history...
Today I spent the afternoon with a tea ceremony master learning a bit about tea ceremony, drinking tea, and eating 和菓子 sweets. Of course, tea ceremony dates WAY back in Japan's already long history, to the 9th century according to this wikipedia article. Watching the ceremony, I couldn't help thinking how amazing it really is that this tradition was passed down through the generations for over 1000 years. It totally shifts your worldview and focus from the present to merge the past with the present and how it all will be presented in the future.
A different perspective on the world.
Today I spent the afternoon with a tea ceremony master learning a bit about tea ceremony, drinking tea, and eating 和菓子 sweets. Of course, tea ceremony dates WAY back in Japan's already long history, to the 9th century according to this wikipedia article. Watching the ceremony, I couldn't help thinking how amazing it really is that this tradition was passed down through the generations for over 1000 years. It totally shifts your worldview and focus from the present to merge the past with the present and how it all will be presented in the future.
A different perspective on the world.
And we're off!
So here at sit at my home for the next hour or so, Gate D15, waiting for my flight to Tokyo. I managed to find a place to plug in my laptop, so I am taking full advantage of the free electricity while I can. On my last trip to Japan, the planes had power in the seats, that was an Airbus; this time, I'll be lucky if I even get a movie on an overhead screen, this is a Boeing.
As I sit here waiting, double checking I have all the necessary documents and items (international converter, iPod cables, camera chargers, etc), I can't stop thinking about how different this trip is going to be.
First off, I'm sitting here calmly by myself, not really worrying about the trip. Granted, this time its for 7 days, not 4 months, but it's very relaxing so far. I enjoyed my salad lunch I brought myself and I wasn't too nervous to eat it. I haven't overpacked snacks because I know they will feed me plenty (unless the airlines have cut back on their food, snacks, and drinks on these international flights...). I've got my rail pass ticket to exchange, I know where to pick up my cell phone, and if nothing goes right when I first arrive, I know fully that I can handle the situations with my Japanese skills, and if not that, I've got my electronic dictionary to keep me afloat.
Second and most obviously, I've been to Japan before. I know the subway and train system, I know where things are located, and I shouldn't get lost at all. But one never can be 100% sure.
There are a few differences staring me in the face. I won't have the luxury of time to go all the places I'd like. But maybe that's the beauty of it; no matter how many times I visit Japan, or anywhere for that matter, I'll never be able to see enough. At least that leaves more to be seen for the next trip, right?
Sitting here in the airport, there's a flight that's just now boarding heading to Germany. For the most part, it's really easy to tell who is going where. Mostly by how they are dressed, but also by how they conduct themselves here at the gate. There are a few remaining that are a bit curious, I guess we'll find out if they're on this flight or not. Makes me wonder, where do I look like I'm going...
See you on the other side!
As I sit here waiting, double checking I have all the necessary documents and items (international converter, iPod cables, camera chargers, etc), I can't stop thinking about how different this trip is going to be.
First off, I'm sitting here calmly by myself, not really worrying about the trip. Granted, this time its for 7 days, not 4 months, but it's very relaxing so far. I enjoyed my salad lunch I brought myself and I wasn't too nervous to eat it. I haven't overpacked snacks because I know they will feed me plenty (unless the airlines have cut back on their food, snacks, and drinks on these international flights...). I've got my rail pass ticket to exchange, I know where to pick up my cell phone, and if nothing goes right when I first arrive, I know fully that I can handle the situations with my Japanese skills, and if not that, I've got my electronic dictionary to keep me afloat.
Second and most obviously, I've been to Japan before. I know the subway and train system, I know where things are located, and I shouldn't get lost at all. But one never can be 100% sure.
There are a few differences staring me in the face. I won't have the luxury of time to go all the places I'd like. But maybe that's the beauty of it; no matter how many times I visit Japan, or anywhere for that matter, I'll never be able to see enough. At least that leaves more to be seen for the next trip, right?
Sitting here in the airport, there's a flight that's just now boarding heading to Germany. For the most part, it's really easy to tell who is going where. Mostly by how they are dressed, but also by how they conduct themselves here at the gate. There are a few remaining that are a bit curious, I guess we'll find out if they're on this flight or not. Makes me wonder, where do I look like I'm going...
See you on the other side!